Trentasettesima tappa

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“Il fuoco di un camino
non è caldo come il sole del mattino…”

Dopo la pioggia di ieri finalmente il sole, la partenza è calda su una strada facile … non ricordo una giornata calda da Addis …

I pulmann in Etiopia hanno un megafono sul tetto, è bello sentirli arrivare, sono gioiosi e penso la musica serva anche a tenere lontani i bambini dalla strada e forse gli asini e le vacche … oggi il mio teorema che più ci avvicina ai centri turistici più aumenta l’accattonaggio e la stupidità ha trovato diverse dimostrazioni pratiche … i sassi che non mi arrivavano da tempo sono ricomparsi … uno lanciatomi da un simpatico pastorello da una collinetta era grosso come una mela … Continua a leggere

Thirty-seventh stage

Click to enlarge“Il fuoco di un camino
non è caldo come il sole del mattino…”

(“The fire of a chimney / isn’t as warm as the morning sun”)

After yesterday rain finally the sun, the departure is hot on a easy road … I do not remember a hot day since Addis …

The buses in Ethiopia have a speaker on the roof, it is nice to hear them come, they are joyful and I think the music also keeps the children away from the road and maybe donkeys and cows too … today my theory that the closer you get to touristic centers the more begging and stupidity increase has today found many practical demonstrations … the stones which were not reaching me for some time have reappeared … one thrown at me by a nice young shepard from a hill was the size of a apple … Continua a leggere

Thirty-sixth stage

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‘I think I am the first ferenje who stays over for the night here’ I say to the couple escorting me to the hotel with no signpost.

‘Noooo … there was another one in September two years ago …’ they answer … we laughed for five minutes. They kept saying ‘not the first, the second!’ …

There was a drawing on my school book in primary school which pictured slaves building the pyramids, I remember the never ending rows of slaves carrying one stone each. Continua a leggere

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‘Penso di essere uno dei primi ferenje che passa la notte qui’ dico alla coppia che mi ha accompagnato nell’albergo senza insegna.

‘Noooo … ce ne è stato un altro a settembre due anni fa …’ rispondono … abbiamo riso per cinque minuti. Dicevano ‘not the first, the second!’ …

C’era un disegno sul mio sussidiario delle elementari che ritraeva gli schiavi che costruivano le piramidi, mi ricordo file infinite di schiavi che portavano ognuno una pietra. Continua a leggere

Thirty-fifth stage

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‘Quando ghe nè più, ghe nè a mo!’, is a say from where I come from, which would translate something like when there is nothing left, there is still a lot.

If last night at five, while I was going forth and back from the toilet, somebody would have told me … you will do 94 km I would have laughed … I thought the stomach was a strong point of my poor body … instead some spicy food betrayed me … I had the lucidity to drink salts and to eat some dextrose sweets to have a bit of energy to start again … when the alarm went off at 6,56 I switch it off … I am finally sleeping well … for breakfast I manage to drink some tea in which I put as much sugar as possible and I eat three doughy Enervit cereal bars which Serena gave me in Nairobi and are getting finished …

On the way back from the last trip to the toilet, at 5,11 I receive a message from Giorgia, who says she has woken up with a craving for crackers Doria, myself too I would eat a packet crunchy and with the salt on top I think, neither me nor her will satisfy this craving … the food visions come often on this journey today in a mountain village there is a smell of goat … which made me crave goat cheese … the little one is moving a lot hopefully he will turn …

At the beginning you go down to 1800 meters of Finote Selam, where I stop to take a tea, the waiter, embodied by my guardian angel, brings me without me asking some focaccia bread, which I managed to eat very slowly. Then the uphill starts again slowly slowly until the 2536 of Kosober, a uphill of 13 kilometers is a living death. Immediately after Finote Selam I bought for 2 birr, a plastic bag with a dozen yellow lemons, small, bitter and juicy … at the end I will have only three left … they have a very thin skin I peel then with my teeth and hands and then I chew them in a mouth full … it seems to me that my body appreciates and needs it … as I write I am feeling a bit hungry … let’s hope for the best …

t35Today with energies next to zero I did not take many pictures, I never looked at the altitude, I stopped many times, to buy something to drink, to put oil on the chain, to eat lemons, to speak to people. In a typical mountain village there was a gathering of male farmers waiting for the distribution of fertilizer, I was thirsty and I wanted some water, a young guy went from hut shop to hut shop , at the end he managed to find only a Fanta pineapple, excellent for digestion, I left hime the change as a tip for all the effort he put … 22 kilometers from Kosober I stopped to lubrify the chain, as usual a circle was formed, with elders and younths asking me where I was coming from, where I am going, which nationality I am … tire, chain and paper (map) are also Aramaic words … These stops helped to start again with a smile …

Dembecha N 10° 55’ E 37° 48.333’ – Kosober N 10° 95’ E 36° 93.333

94 km

Trentacinquesima tappa

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Quando ghe nè più, ghe nè a mo!’, si dice dalle mie parti.

Se questa notte alle cinque, mentre facevo avanti indietro dal bagno, mi avessero detto … farai 94 km mi sarei messo a ridere … pensavo lo stomaco fosse il punto forte del mio scarso fisico … invece qualche cibo speziato mi ha tradito … ho avuto la lucidità di bere dei sali minerali e mangiare delle caramelle di destrosio per avere un minimo di energia per ripartire … quando la sveglia suona alle 6 e 56 la spengo … sto dormendo finalmente bene … a colazione riesco a bere un thè nel quale ci metto più zucchero possibile e mangio tre di quelle barrette pastose della Enervit che Serena mi aveva dato a Nairobi e stanno finendo …

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Thirty-fourth stage

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Today I liked myself!

At 70 km from departure I stopped at the FM International Hotel, where I knew there was a internet point, I ate a fantastic cake, with fresh avocado and mango juice and … two cappuccinos … when I was about to start off again a torrential storm rages … the waiter told me ‘it is better you stay here tonight …’ surely the place was very beautiful … also today I was not feeling too well … but for me 40 km more per day are important … Continua a leggere

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Oggi mi sono piaciuto!

A 70 km dalla partenza mi sono fermato all’Hotel FM International, dove sapevo esserci un internet point, ho mangiato una torta fantastica, con succo fresco di avocado e mango e … due cappuccini … quando stavo per ripartire si è scatenato un temporale torrenziale … il cameriere mi ha detto ‘è meglio che resti qui stanotte …’ … certo il posto era bellissimo … anche oggi non stavo benissimo … ma per me 40 km in più al giorno sono importanti … Continua a leggere